Seasoned queens.
It seems like only days ago that we attended the last set of mens collections, but we’re back again, this time for Spring/Summer 20. Here’s some of the first looks from our faves so far.
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EDWARD CRUTCHLEY SS20
Edward Crutchley’s latest co-ed collection explores nostalgia without being nostalgic. He recalls a stuffy Britain aghast at Ikea’s 1996 ‘Chuck out your chintz’ TV commercial and celebrates the suburban style of Hyacinth Bucket in the BBC sitcom Keeping Up Appearances. SS20 mourns the decline of the British floral and its familiar role in the 9 to 5 uniform of the aspirational middle-class.
Our favourite menswear pieces are the double-pleated trousers with rounded hips in shades of mauve and dust pink. His nod to Valentino womenswear with taffeta in head to toe black is one of our favourite looks and is just asking to be worn to the opera.
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ICEBERG SS20
There is an air of positive rebellion at ICEBERG for SS20 where youth tribes and cultures meet and combine in hyper colour and monochrome. Where, in the imagination of James Long, the Punks of Kings Road hang out with the Sloanes and Hoorays of Knightsbridge (the spiritual home of the original ICEBERG London store) and South Kensington Goths.
A boyish Rocker zipped sleeve jacket and matching bondage trousers flash and unzip to reveal the palest candy flesh pink for men and women. And, for those who prefer Bauhaus or Iggy crooning “I love your hair” in their headphones there are navy on navy sports tailoring with tonal shirts. Or black with black tracksuits and a chic, gender fluid take on fishnet comes in the form of vests and maxi skirts.
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ART SCHOOL SS20
The sound of blossom pushing through gravel inspired Art School this season. Going back to Derek Jarman’s garden in Dungeness, the process and trials of turning inhospitable ground into a sanctuary is more than just a metaphor – for Art School this is Modern Nature, impossible landscapes build with care and patience.
The language of godheads and deities haunt this collection. They add ‘We have always thought about how to represent queer communities in a new and more authentic way. Entwining spiritual themes into each look has enabled us to share this energy. For us this is Modern Nature, each member of the Art School family embodies queerness and each contributes to the way ideas develop and form’.
The story of cold sand trapped in hair. This season they collaborated with the artist Richard Porter to connect deities with shingle and clay. Each piece is based on the finds from Derek Jarman’s cottage. The hair sculptures represent shared ideals and what you see is just a small piece of Modern Nature.
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NEW MENSWEAR THIS WEEK
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